Luxury Lexicon A definition

Saddle stitch

A hand-sewn leather seam made with one thread and a needle at each end, the two ends crossing at every stitch.

Saddle stitching joins leather by hand using a single thread with a needle at each end. The two ends pass through the stitch holes and cross at each stitch. Holding the pieces securely helps the leatherworker control their alignment while sewing. Hermès describes leatherworkers using a wooden clamp to hold pieces as they join them with this stitch, and identifies it as a house signature. The term needs its leatherworking context because saddle stitching in bookbinding refers to fastening a folded gathering with wire staples.

In job listings

A leather goods role may ask for hand-stitching skills without using this word. It is worth knowing in artisan, repair and product roles, and an advisor may use it to explain why a seam holds if one stitch breaks. Search local jobs for “leather goods”.

References

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